[ Home ] [ Up ]

At midday I went on board the Peninsular and Oriental Steam Navigation Company's vessel "Sultan" Captain Weeks Master of the burthen of 1100 tons and 420 horses power - secured a berth and got my luggage properly stowed and very fortunate it was I did so in good time for it afterwards turned out that there were so many people that room could hardly be found for the accommodation of all.

This morning we departed from Luxor, deferring our visit to the part of Thebes which remain on the other side of the river until our return, when we shall have seen the whole of what Pope describes as

"The world's great Empress on the Egyptian plain

That spread her conquest o'er a thousand states

And poured her heroes thro' a hundred gates;

Two hundred horsemen and two hundred cars

Thro' each wide portal issued to the wars."

Had a long walk thro' the region of cotton fields. At night we stopped at Herment, an Arab village which stands upon the ruins of a city named by the Greeks "Hermanthis".

Monday 16^th Jan 1854

This morning before breakfast Monsr de Ferron & myself went to visit the ruins of the ancient Hermanthis which altho' not very extensive are very beautiful. They consist of one temple very well preserved but small, and some very beautiful columns. Of course the temple inside and out is covered with hieroglyphics. We had not time to remain long as we did not wish to lose the advantage of a fair wind which was blowing at the time and which lasted all day. At dusk we passed by the town of "Esneh" but did not stop for the reason before mentioned. At night had a blister on my chest to relieve the pain attendant upon breathing.

Tuesday 17^th Jan 1854

This morning a little before 12 we arrived at Edfou, the ancient Apollinopolis Magna where are the remains of an immense temple. At each side of the gateway is an immense building something in the form of a wedge being 100 feet high. At the bottom it is 100 feet broad by 30 feet thick and at the top 83 feet by 23 - covered with hieroglyphics of an enormous size, some being 30 feet in height. The interior is nearly filled with dust and old bricks, the remains of Arab dwellings, but nevertheless there are still to be seen about 50 magnificent columns. The town is the most miserable of all the Arab places I have been in, nothing but filth and dirty children - except one little Nubian girl who was really as beautiful as a black person well could be, with a handsome set of teeth, an exceedingly pretty face, and a sweet good natured smile. She came and timidly asked for a "Backsheesh", an exception to the general rule of refusing all such demands was made in her favor, and I delighted her with 5 paras.

After staying about 2½ hours the wind being good off we started again. About 6 we met another boat with the Yankee Stars and Stripes returning with the stream. In passing each fired a salute. We each raised our hats and pursued our ways. For the last few days & today also we have seen one or more crocodiles which are very numerous.

Wednesday 18^th Jan 1854

About 11 o'clock this morning we stopped at the nearest approachable place to the ruins of "Koum Ombos" which ruins consist of the remains of a temple and thirteen beautiful columns. The remains are not extensive but the hieroglyphics are very perfect. There is also a Greek inscription showing that the temple was dedicated in the reign of King Ptolemy and Queen Cleopatra his sister - 2000 years ago. An immense quantity of sand has accumulated all about it from the neighboring desert of Arabia. Monsr de Ferron with his photographical instrument took two different views of these beautiful ruins which have (the ruins) a very striking effect from the river after one has ascended a little.

Thursday 19^th Jan 1854

During the night we had arrived at the village of Es Souan which being close to the first cataract is our resting place. After breakfast we put ourselves upon donkeys and traversed the desert (about 6 miles) as far as the island of Philae, in doing which we passed out of the land of Egypt into Nubia. Altho' the two countries are contiguous to each other it is astonishing what a difference there is between the natives. The Egyptians are of a tawny colour and without exception very plain - the Nubians are quite black with remarkable fine features and beautiful white teeth. The women & children all came around us in passing thro' a small village, trying to sell bracelets, necklaces & the different ornaments they wear about them. I purchased a necklace for a piastre as a curiosity.

Philaes is a small island just above what is called the first cataract, containing some most magnificent and extensive ruins, of course all covered with hieroglyphics and the colours as fresh as the day they were first put on. In one of the entrances there is an inscription in French cut out in the year 1799 when Bonaparte's army chased the Marmelukes from the Pyramids as far as the cataracts, containing some particulars as to the names of the different generals etc. In returning we saw some of the quarries where the ancients had been accustomed to get their immense blocks of granite to make the temples, columns, obelisks, etc at Thebes, Luxor, Dendera, etc. There was one unfinished obelisk which I measured & found to be about 75 feet long formed of one solid mass of Lyenite & about 10 feet broad. Several other pieces still bear the marks of the chisels & the instruments used to remove them. When at Philae we were to the southward of 24º N and very near the commencement of the Tropic of Cancer. The heat as may be imagined from our southerly position was intense - but what must be in July - still more hot must it be at the Equator. An Englishman can form no idea of it who never leaves his country. The warmest day in summer in Great Britain is cool and refreshing when compared to this. The children are perfectly naked, the men 4/5ths so, and the women 3/4ths so.

Friday 20^th Jan 1854

Having read in various books of the ruins which are to be seen at the Island of Elephantiné we betook ourselves there, and after traversing a plain of old bricks and ruins, we found nothing - absolutely almost nothing! But a small gateway of about 20 stones, when we were informed that the beautiful ruins were underground. However we had the fortune to see a large fox of a bright yellow colour which bolted too soon to allow itself to be shot. After this disappointment we returned & went thro' the bazaars to provision. At night two English boats arrived.

Saturday 21^st Jan 1854

This morning we again put ourselves upon donkeys and went to Philae where Monsr. de Ferron took several photographic views. On our return we turned the boat's head round, fired a parting salute of four shots, and floated down the stream with four oars going on each side - bidding goodbye for ever to the Cataracts & Philae.

Sunday 22^nd Jan 1854

Floating down the stream all day with the sail stowed - wind contrary - passed Koum Ombos - at evening the wind blew so strong as to counteract the influence of the tide, so we had to moor for an hour or two.

Monday 23^rd Jan 1854

This morning before breakfast we descended at "Gebel Silsili" where are immense quarries from which the Ancients got part of the stone for the formation of their temples, obelisks, etc. Also grottos are to be seen cut out in the solid rock, covered with hieroglyphics. There is one very large tomb where the colours are still very bright - and a large obelisk unfinished. During the afternoon we met an American bark going up the river. We hauled our Ensign down & up three times to wish them a good & pleasant trip, & fired a salute, both of which they answered. At dusk we also passed an English boat & fired a salute, which was also answered.

Tuesday 24^th Jan 1854

This morning on awakening we found ourselves moored close to Edfou, where we went after breakfast to take photographic views. The little Nubian girl whom we saw last week happening to come into the Temple, Monsr. de Ferron promised her a backsheesh if she would stand still and allow herself to be taken along with the Temple - to which she agreed, but her Father & Mother were in a great state of alarm thinking that Monsr. de Ferron wanted her likeness to return in the night and steal her away - but the promise of a backsheesh was all powerful & she was permitted to remain at a distance - but no promise would induce them to allow a portrait of her alone to be taken - the fear of the "Franks" taking her away was too great.

After dinner we floated away again. About 6 o'clock we saw a boat under Dutch colours. The Dutchmen saluted us and we returned it. This morning we again had some drops of rain, a circumstance which happens even more seldom here than at Thebes. The sky here sometimes is overcast with black heavy looking clouds, and bears every appearance of rain the same as in England, but after remaining some time they pass away without any effect. It seems as if some influence withheld the rain from falling, and when it does fall it is only a very few drops which can hardly be distinguished even upon the deck.

Wednesday 25^th Jan 1854

This morning upon rising we found ourselves in the vicinity of El Kab Eliethias in the mountains near which are several grottos very ancient indeed, supposed to be more ancient than even the Temples of Thebes. The paintings inside, which are remarkably well preserved, represent the various occupations of the ancient Egyptians. On one side of the largest grotto is represented "the picture of a feast at which the master & mistress are seated together on a seat with a monkey at their feet eating grapes. A servant appears to introduce the guests who are sitting in rows, both men & women, each with a lotus in the hand - to some the attendants are presenting bowls & dishes. Behind the visitors are tables covered with several kinds of food & the banquet is enlivened with different kinds of music. One woman is playing a harp, another a double flute, three others are dancing in the style known at Cairo under the name of the "Almeh" & another small figure is performing with a sword in either hand. The master is then represented walking attended by his servants to visit his laborers at work, & accordingly there is depicted the mode of hoeing, plowing, sowing & rolling, of reaping corn & gathering it, of winnowing it & carrying it to the granary & finally its embarkation on board some boats. The farmyard is crowded with oxen, cows, sheep, goats, asses, mules, etc. After that is seen grape gathering & making wine - catching fish & fowl - finally fruits are offered to the master & his friends, & the whole concludes with offerings to the gods." The complexions of the women are invariably yellow, & those of the men red. The whole of the foregoing can be easily distinguished.

In another grotto is seen the process of embalming the dead, & then the funeral procession, besides various other objects. On the whole I came away gratified quite as much as with any of the temples. The grottos are situated in the sides of the mountains (Arabians) at the foot of which in the desert are two very small temples consisting only of one small chamber - one of which is covered inside with hieroglyphics, the other with paintings.

Returned to dinner about 5 pm when we immediately pushed off to float down to Esneh.

Thursday 26^th Jan 1854

At 8 o'clock we arrived at Esneh where we stop for the men to make bread again. There is nothing to see except a temple in the middle of the town, built up on all sides by houses, and used as a kind of warehouse when there is anything to put in it which I imagine is not often, however there it is - with 24 fine columns - six rows of four each - something in the same style as Dendera. During the day Monsr. de Ferron took a view of some palm trees and camels.

Friday 27^th Jan 1854

The men having finished the making of their bread this morning, we departed from Esneh about 11 o'clock with (as usual) an unfavorable wind. We seem fated to have an unfavorable wind for in going up it was contrary and in coming down it is going up. After floating with the tide all day we arrived at Herment about midnight.

Saturday 28^th Jan 1854

Monsr. de Ferron took a photographic view of the beautiful ruins of Herment today and about two o'clock we left for Thebes. Today the men took it into their heads to pull with the oars so that with the double assistance of oars and current we descended very fast and arrived at Thebes about 5 pm. Five other boats which are on their way up are lying at Luxor, which answered our salute on our arrival. About 7 o'clock an English boat followed us and fired about 20 times which was answered by all the others so that it sounded like a little warlike engagement.

Sunday 29^th Jan 1854

About 9 o'clock we proceeded on donkey back to visit the ruins of the temple and palace at Medinet Abou, formerly part of Thebes, which are about 2 miles from the river, where we breakfasted. It is useless to describe them as they are the same as the others - covered with hieroglyphics etc. About half a mile to the north east stand the two colossal statues one of which is the statue of Memnon & covered with Greek inscriptions - they are both nearly of equal height being about 80 feet high. The southernmost one is formed of one entire block of granite, but the other (Memnon) has been half built with smaller pieces. From thence we went to visit the Temple of the Memnonium which is about another half mile to the N of the two Colossals - there, nothing but columns left standing now - with another once magnificent statue of Memnon formed entirely of one block of granite laying upon the ground broken into three or four pieces - when entire it must have been even larger than the two others.

From thence we crossed over the Libian mountains to a place called Medan El Melout where are the tombs of the ancient kings. The mountains seem to have been nearly excavated to form these tombs which extend an immense length inwards, containing several chambers - a temple - pillars - hieroglyphics - paintings, and every sort of magnificence which could at any cost or labour be expended upon them. One of them in particular is magnificent, the tomb of Rameses III, commonly called Belzoni's tomb because it was discovered by Mr Belzoni. I did not enter it on account of the fatigue I had suffered in crossing the mountains but waited until Monsr. de Ferron returned. In returning we took a different route & went thro a valley between the mountains which led us into the plain by the Nile about 8 miles from our boat where we returned about 5 o'clock very tired, visiting in our way the insignificant remains of a temple at Goornoo.

At night after dark a boat arrived (ascending) firing sundry salutes, and about an hour after who should arrive but Monsr. Theodoridi whom we had left at Gizeh - who had taken a boat along with an American gentleman & arrived tonight. What between fleas and heat got very little sleep.

Monday 30^th Jan 1854

This morning we went over to the other side of the river to breakfast with Monsr. Theodoridi & his friend, after which the American gent and I went to Karnac while the others went to shoot. In the afternoon we had the two of them over to dine with us.

Tuesday 31^st Jan 1854

A little after 8 o'clock Monsr. Theodoridi & his friend came over & we all went to Medinet Abou where Monsr. de Ferron (after having had breakfast in the Temple) took a photographic view. After that he took another view of the Colossal Statues & then of the Temple of the Memnonium. Then we went to visit some more tombs at the side of the mountains, inhabited now by people living instead of dead - with a horrible stench - heat & full of fleas - which made me glad to get out again. About half past four we returned to dinner with good appetites after all our visiting of ruins, tombs, etc.

Wednesday 1^st Feb 1854

One month of the new year has passed which also decreases the time of my exile from home. This morning the wind blew with such violence that the sand rose in immense clouds insomuch that sometimes we could not see the neighbouring boats. Of course there was no pleasure in going out to get half suffocated with dust, and as the wind continued all day, so did we nearly inside our house. Monsr. Theodoridi whose boat is across the river at Luxor came on board ours to hail his little boat to come & put him on board, bringing with him an English gentleman who is also stopping across at Luxor. In the course of conversation I asked him from what part of England he came from , to which he replied, "Oh from the North, from Newcastle upon Tyne" to which I replied, "So do I". He then asked my name etc, and I then found out that it was young Davidson the Miller's son, whom I met 2½ years ago on Loch Katrine while travelling in Scotland. I had seen him yesterday but did not recognise him, nor he me. It appears that he is with his brother who is travelling for the benefit of his health, being also afflicted with a lung complaint. His brother had remained in his boat so I went across with him, stopped & dined with them, and had a long talk about "home affairs", returning about dark.

Today with yesterday has been an exception to the usual fine mild warm weather here, for the wind has been fresh and very very cold - not that it would be cold for England, on the contrary, but after being so long accustomed to great heat, one is very sensible to the least change.

Thursday 2^nd Feb 1854

There being too much wind & dust for Monsr. de Ferron to take any views, we all went again to Beban El Melouk to visit the Tombs of the Kings. The Davidsons departed South this morning for the second cataract, sending me before their departure a bottle of cod liver oil.

Friday 3^rd Feb 1854

A cloudless sky and little or no wind was just the thing for Monsr. de Ferron, therefore he went to Medinet Abou and took some more views of the Temple. Out of 13 boats which were here the day before yesterday, they have all departed one way or another except ourselves. Today we received an addition of two more from the South.

Saturday 4^th Feb 1854

Not a cloud to be seen all day & the heat so intense we did not go out all day.

Sunday 5^th Feb 1854

Monsr. de Ferron again took some views - at Goornoo - nothing particular new.

Monday 6^th Feb 1854

Monsr. de Ferron took some views again today, and among others a view of Luxor with the boats lying there & ours lying at the opposite shore. We then went across with our boat to the Luxor side of the river, beside the two English boats with whom we had sailed for some days and who had left us when we stayed at Maufalout. They have been as far as the second cataract and back again. At night it was most horribly cold.

Tuesday 7^th Feb 1854

Nothing new worthy of remark.

Wednesday 8^th Feb 1854

At Karnak all day.

Thursday 9^th Feb 1854

At Karnak. At dinner we had a Monsr. de Lasgy, a Polonaise gentleman whom we had seen at Kenneh, Thebes & again at Es Souan. He has been as far as the second cataract & had left his boat early this morning to follow him, and it not having arrived he had come to take pot luck with us. During the evening his boat arrived.

Friday 10^th Feb 1854

Encore at Karnak. After dinner we went to take coffee and smoke our tchibouges with Monsr. de Lasgy & his companion a German doctor who is in consumption & travelling for his health. They have a little tent erected on the beach because their boat makes water & is rather damp. The Doctor has spent 10 months in Italy without speaking one word, thinking that a means to cure himself.

Saturday 11^th Feb 1854

Nothing extraordinary - dined with Monsr. de Lasgy & the Doctor.

Sunday 12^th & Monday 13^th Feb 1854

Both passed without anything out of the common taking place.

Tuesday 14^th Feb 1854

Valentines Day - Daggett's birthday - wished him many happy returns of the day. On getting up this morning our Dragoman informed me that the English boat we saw at Kenneh had come back with one of the gentlemen dead, and shortly after the English Consul sent to see if I would attend the funeral along with the other English gentleman here. The service was performed by a clergyman who happened to be at Luxor, and the grave was dug in the place assigned to the Copts here. It appears that he is the son of Sir Wilfred Lawson who lives somewhere in Cumberland. Being in consumption he came to Egypt for the benefit of the climate and he had got very much better & stronger in coming up the Nile, but when he arrived here (exactly a month ago) he had exerted himself too much by going to Karnak & Medinet Abou & mounting the Temples, which made him ill again, and from that time he gradually sunk & died the day before yesterday near Edfou. Poor fellow, he was only 21 - every flag was halfmast high all day.

Wednesday 15^th Feb 1854

Today we went (á âne) to visit the Tombs of the Priests but as there was hardly anything to see, Monsr. & Madame de Ferron made another and parting visit to Beban El Melouk to the Tombs of the Kings - but as the journey is very fatiguing, I took warning of poor young Lawson and returned to Luxor, when I made the Rais (Capt.) bring the bark over to the other side. Monsr. de Lasgy departed for Cairo at 5 o'clock this afternoon amidst numerous salutes.

Thursday 16^th Feb 1854

Monsr. de Ferron having two or three other views to take at Medinet Abou, we breakfasted in the Grand Temple for the last time amidst hieroglyphics, broken columns, etc. At ¼ to 4 pm we pushed off , fired a parting salute of ten shots to the boats remaining at Luxor which was duly responded to - bid goodbye for ever to Medinet Abou, Luxor, Karnak, Goornoo, with all their ponderous magnificence and once more started for Cairo, after having remained 19 days. In the hopes of arriving at Kenneh & visiting Dendera tomorrow, the men pulled with good will at their oars, by which means, together with a strong current, we soon lost sight of the remains of "Ancient Thebes". The distance between Luxor & Kenneh is about 48 miles.

Friday 17^th Feb 1854

About 8 o'clock this morning we stopped on the opposite shore to Kenneh and we started off to visit Dendera, where we had our breakfast. About 1 pm we returned and crossed over to Kenneh where we provisioned and returned to dinner at 5. At 7 o'clock or a little after we departed once more for Kenneh , to see the Danseuses or "Almehs". Madame de Ferron dressed herself as a man, or rather she appeared like a pretty little boy of 12 or 14 years old. We took our Dragoman with us to search for & procure the Almehs. We were put into a small room & seated as usual upon a low divan. The three girls then commenced to dance to the music of a most singular instrument, a mixture of violin & guitar. During the interval between dances they sang Arab songs which were anything but interesting. For a finale we had the dance called "The Bee" - every person was immediately sent out of the room except ourselves and the Almehs. The Bee when properly performed consists of one of the Almehs pretending to search for a bee hid under her clothes and singing "Nahl ! Eho !" (The Bee ! Oh !). During the search one thing after another is thrown off, and at last the trousers. It is a sight which every traveller passing up the Nile goes to see. We returned about 10½ and gave orders to the Rais to go away immediately. In default of wind the men took their oars for a night's work.

Saturday 18^th Feb 1854

This morning a light wind in our favor relieved the men from rowing. About 10 we passed the village of Hew - the ancient Diospolis Parva. At 11 we passed Farchoot where is the sugar refinery but I saw nothing of the Englishman there. About 5 in the afternoon we arrived at "El Baliana" where we stopped to go & see Abydos in the morning, it being too late tonight. We arrived in company with an English boat which did not stop. El Baliana is about 49 miles from Kenneh. The heat during the day was so excessive that we could not venture out of the shade & even there laying perfectly still we were in a state of vapour bath. It was by far the hottest day since I have left England. Margaret's birthday - wished her many happy returns.

Sunday 19^th Feb 1854

After an early breakfast we put ourselves upon donkeys to go & visit the ruins of Abydos, having first instructed our Rais to start immediately for Ghirgeh where we would join him. 2½ hours riding brought us to Abydos, where the ruins are nearly covered up with sand. However the hieroglyphics are beautifully sculptured & we saw what we have not yet seen in any of the ancient Egyptian Temples before, & what I believe does not exist in any other place, viz , chambers with the roof vaulted, the arch not being built but cut out in the stone, for the ancient Egyptians were ignorant of the principal of the arch.

The modern name of Abydos is "Arabat el Matfoon" & the ruins are of considerable antiquity, dating in the time of Osirei I & his son Remeses the Great. After having seen all that was to be seen we go upon our donkeys again & after a tiresome ride of 4 hours we arrived at Girgeh where we found our boat & parted immediately in company with two English boats, but we had not been gone more than ½ an hour before the wind came all of a sudden right up the river, blowing a perfect tempest so that we could not descend against it, but along with the other two had to pull to land & moor until it had passed over, which it did in about 2½ hours.

Monday 20 Feb 1853

On waking this morning we found ourselves in the same place as last night - the Rais pretending that the wind had kept us back but the Rais does not always speak the truth. However the men took to their oars and there being little or no wind all day, we got on pretty well. We passed Souhag, Menshech & El Ikmim - excessively hot all day.

Tuesday 21 Feb 1854

We commenced this morning from Sheekh Hereedee - & passed Tahta - about 10 o'clock we got a fair wind which lasted us till about 3 when it suddenly turned round & blew a perfect gale for some hours. We passed Gow where once stood the Temple of Antaeopolis - Abooteeg & Motmar, & were in good hopes of getting to Es Siout in time to visit the bazaars before dark, when the wind came & blew us ashore, where we remained.

Wednesday 22 Feb 1854

Although we were so near to Es Siout, the wind was so strong that we could not go down against it, but had to take donkeys. The wind continued all day and we remained in the same place. At night about dusk the wind went down but a new difficulty arose - one of our men bearing the name of "Abul Gassen" had taken it into his head to walk off with all his clothes - consequently the Rais went to seek him but shortly returned without having found him. However we started without him & the Rais presently came to supplicate permission to go ashore again to seek him, promising to join us at Manfalout tomorrow, with or without him. As he was one of the stroke oarsmen & the Rais had advanced him some money we agreed. The names of some of the other men are Hassan, Mustapha, Machmout, Achmet, Mohammed, Ali, - the rest are so difficult to make out that I really cannot write them.

Thursday 23^rd Feb 1854

The same as yesterday, for about 9 o'clock this morning the wind arose in fury and as we could not get any further down, we had to moor the boat ashore until about 5 in the afternoon when we had less wind. About 10 we arrived at Manfalout where we were joined by the Rais who had not been successful in his search after Abul Gassen. It appears that he had shipped as a sailor in another boat and gone up again to Es Souan. Not having anything to do or get at Manfalout we continued our voyage against a strong wind. Manfalout is half way from Thebes to Cairo. We promised the sailors a backsheesh to row hard & get us to Tel el Amarna by tomorrow morning, a distance of about 30 miles.

Friday 24^th Feb 1854

As we were not at Tel el Amarna this morning, the sailors got no backsheesh. The wind continued against us all day blowing most furiously, consequently we made very little way.

Saturday 25^th Feb 1854

Early this morning we arrived at Tel el Amarna where we stopped to go and visit some grottoes in the mountains near, having instructed the Rais to go on & we would overtake him - but the wind came on again with redoubled fury & rendered it impossible for the boat to go on. At 1½ we returned & at 5 pm the wind permitted us to continue our descent, to hasten which we promised the sailors a backsheesh to be at Beni Hassan first thing tomorrow. The loss of the backsheesh this morning & the hopes of it tomorrow caused the men to take the oars and pull - & at the time of this being written they are singing and pulling hard enough - leaving me in good hopes of arriving at Beni Hassan tomorrow early.

Sunday 26^th Feb 1854

This morning at 7½ we arrived at Beni Hassan and took donkeys to go and visit the grottoes which are about 2½ miles off in the mountains. There are not many hieroglyphics but the caves are covered with colored figures of people wrestling - attacking a fort - manufacturing linen cloth - inflicting the bastinado - but in one of the tombs there is represented a singular procession of strangers, by some supposed to be the arrival of Joseph's brethren into Egypt - for Joseph was the Governor of Egypt in the time of Osirtasen in whose reign these grottoes were formed.

"The first figure is an Egyptian scribe who presents an account of their arrival to a person seated - the owner of the tomb & one of the principal officers of the King. The next, also an Egyptian, ushers them into his presence 7 two advance bringing presents consisting of an Ibex or wild goat & a gazelle, the productions of their country or caught on the way. Four men carrying bows and clubs follow, leading an ass on which two children are placed in panniers, accompanied by a boy & four women, and last of all another ass laden and two men - one holding a bow and club, the other a lyre which he plays with the plectrum. All the men have beards contrary to the customs of the Egyptians, but very general in the East at that period.

The men have sandals, the women a sort of boot reaching to the ankle, both of which are worn by many Asiatic people."

The hieroglyphics above however give the owner of the tomb a different name from Joseph - but should it ever be found out that these represent their arrival, they will certainly be regarded as the most interesting of all the Egyptian relics.

The villages of Beni Hassan were destroyed about 25 years ago by an army sent by Ibrahim Pasha who killed every inhabitant of the two places, men women and children, because they were such incorrigible thieves - and even now it is perfectly necessary to keep a good look out at night.

This is the most northerly point where crocodiles are to be found. On returning about 2 o'clock we found the wind as usual against us & blowing so strong that it was perfectly impossible for us to move. About 5 the wind lessened - we got away, and the men shortly after took their oars for a night's work.

Monday 27^th Feb 1854

For a wonder we had a fair wind today but not very strong. During the night we had passed by Minieh and this morning we passed by Samalood & several small towns, but the wind failed us at night and we could not reach Beni Souef. Since we have left Ghirgeh the wind has been excessively cold, more especially at nights - the consequence of which is that I have caught cold, which has brought back a slight pain in my chest which had entirely left me when in Upper Egypt - but the pain is considerably less than on my departure from Cairo in December & I am in good hopes of getting rid of it altogether.

Tuesday 28^th Feb 1854

Five months this morning since I left Newcastle - another three months & I hope to leave for England. On rising found that we had a good wind & were descending very fast, but about 10 o'clock it changed and blew so hard that we were obliged to stop again opposite the village of Rigga where we remained until 6 o'clock in the evening when we made a start again although the wind had not quite gone down.

Wednesday 1^st Mar 1854

Having made but little progress during the night we were only opposite Dashoor & Sakhara at 8½ o'clock this morning when the wind commenced earlier than usual & blew us ashore again, where we had to remain all day again. Being not very far from Cairo I sent our little Dragoman upon a donkey to the hotel for my letters. The wind blew a perfect hurricane all day, being fearfully cold and accompanied with rain, the first we have had since we were at Edfou on the 24^th of January. I am sorry we have left Upper Egypt where the weather was always unexceptionably fine.

Thursday 2^nd Mar 1854

Robert our Dragoman not having returned before dark last night, we caused the boat to be put in motion & arrived at Baulak, the port of Cairo, sometime before daylight. On getting up we put everything to rights to take a final farewell of the boat. When all was ready we went on donkeyback to Cairo. William's Hotel where we were before being full, Monsr. & Madame de Ferron went to the Hotel D'Orient and I went to the Hotel D'Europe - after all very glad to get a little rest and quiet. Before leaving the boat I got a parcel of 10 letters & 5 newspapers which were indeed anything but unwelcome. The letters upon being opened swelled into something like 16 by means of inclosures, and caused me an hour's very agreeable reading.

Friday 3^rd Mar 1854

After breakfast went to the Hotel D'Orient to meet Monsr. de Ferron, our Rais, Owner & Cook, when the account was finally and agreeably settled. The Rais & Cook after being paid as a matter of course demanded their backsheesh, but it was agreed unanimously that as neither of them had given satisfaction, neither of them should have a backsheesh - upon which they departed in not exactly an amiable humour.

Spent the rest of the day in writing & walking about with a Greek named "Theodoridi". The English mail left this afternoon by which I sent a letter home to Lizzie. Yesterday I forgot to mention that I found a gallon of cod liver oil awaiting my arrival here.

Saturday 4^th Mar 1854

Spent the day in going about Cairo.

Sunday 5^th Mar 1854

This morning I went to the English Church where the clergyman is a German named Leader in holy orders from England. The chapel is much like that of Alexandria only it is considerably larger. A young gentleman, a traveller, preached us a short sermon from 1 Kings 9-10-11-12-13 & 14

and we got out at 11½. After church Monsr. de Ferron, Madame & myself went as far as the petrified wood, situated about 4 miles off in the desert and returned in time for dinner at 6½ pm.

Monday 6^th Mar 1854

Nothing out of the common. Today commenced for the first time since last April to read Law, making a determination to read two hours per diem. Dinner at 6½, our usual company consists of 2 Germans, 1 Italian, 1 Greek, 1 Swiss, 1 Englishman & myself.

Tuesday 7^th Mar 1854

Nothing out of the ordinary course of occurrences - paid a visit to the E. Consul.

Wednesday 8^th Mar 1854

The wind was so high and the dust so great as to prevent a person taking a walk today. The English Mail arrived here this afternoon bringing a letter for me from Tom Scurr and a newspaper from James Henry. In the latter I read that poor Charley Kidd is dead - died of consumption, and only 21 - my poor old playmate, how sorry I feel. One by one of my schoolfellows are taken in close succession by consumption, and here I am still left in the midst of friends and comforts, but alas! how ungrateful do I show myself - poor Charley Kidd!

Thursday 9^th Mar 1854

Immediately after breakfast I went with the Rev. Mr. Hill, an English clergyman who is staying at the same hotel and who had got a permit from the government to enter & to visit all the principal mosques in the city. A Christian cannot be allowed admission without such permit, or without a Cawass (a government officer) - and before entering any mosque one must either put off one's shoes & put on slippers, or enter in one's stocking feet. We preferred the former & at every mosque we had to doff our boots & don our slippers, & on coming out vice versa.

Today got my ticket for Alexandria & my passport viséd - bid adieu to my late companions in voyage, Monsr. & Madame de Ferron, who kindly gave me some photographic views as a souvenir - paid my bill at the hotel & got all ready for a start in the morning. After dinner Mr. Hill informed me that about 300 years ago a Sir Thomas Ingledew founded two fellowships in the College of St. Mary Magdalene, Oxford - the fellows to be elected from natives of Yorkshire. The fellowships still exist under the name of the "Ingledew Fellowships" and sometimes the "Yorkshire Fellowships".

Friday 10^th Mar 1854

Rose at 7. Got some coffee and went to the Alexandrian steamer. Started punctually at 9 - very cold all day. Reached Atfeh where we change from the steamer into the canal boat about midnight.

Saturday 11^th Mar 1854

After passing a very cold night sleeping on the seat in the cabin, got to Alexandria about 10½ where altho' it rained fast, it was very considerably warmer than Cairo. Went back to the Victoria Hotel & only found two other people staying there, viz. A Capt. Evans & his wife on their way from India to England.

Sunday 12^th Mar 1854

Walk before breakfast. After breakfast went to the English Chapel. Between lunch and dinner Capt. Evans and myself took a long walk - saw about a thousand soldiers being drilled. Bed at 9½.

Monday 13^th Mar 1854

Spent the day as usual in walking about & writing

Tuesday 14^th Mar 1854

As usual nothing new.

Wednesday 15^th Mar 1854

This morning we received an addition to our number at table in the shape of a young Dutchman who had come by the Austrian steamer from Trieste on his way to Batavia. The Austrian steamer brought the news of 10,000 French troops having gone to Constantinople and that the Black Sea ports were closed by the Russians. Rain and cold all day prevented my walking out.

Thursday 16^th Mar 1854

We lost our Dutchman this morning, he having gone to Cairo to wait there for the Indian passengers. Tonight as last night there was an alluminator on account of the Sultan's daughter being betrothed to Abbas Pasha's son. Today I was all through the Pasha's yacht steamship the "Faid Geehad" (Fortune of War), 2500 tons. She was built in England two years ago and since then has laid in the harbour without being used. However she is now getting ready to take the Pasha's son to Constantinople.

Friday 17^th Mar 1854

Showery all day. The Himalaya arrived with some passengers from Malta - the Euxine with the mails from England due today not arrived. A repetition of the illumination tonight.

Saturday 18^th Mar 1854

A good many of the passengers from Bombay and India arrived today. No Euxine.

Sunday 19^th Mar 1854

Went to the British Chapel and heard Mr. Beemont (the same gentleman whom I heard at Cairo) preach. Some more passengers arrived from India, altogether there were 270. Still no Euxine.

Monday 20^th Mar 1854

The Euxine arrived this morning and as there had been no letter from home last mail, I made sure of one this - but on going to the Post Office I found myself woefully mistaken, there being not even a newspaper. The passengers for India all left this afternoon, and half of the passengers from India for England left by the "Ripon" this afternoon also - the others going by the Euxine on Wednesday. Sent my letter to Father by the Ripon, also one to J.H.I., Tom Scurr & Ed. Fryer.

Tuesday 21^st Mar 1854

Went with Dr. Simpson who is Dr. Ogilvie's assistant to visit the Himalaya, but they were putting her to rights today so that we could not see thro' her until tomorrow. We then went thro' the shipping. Dr. Flint, a young man staying with me at Wood's was with us. He is here for his health, being very bad of consumption - his cheeks are flushed - his cough is bad - his breath short, and he is soon exhausted. Altogether he seems to be in a dying state. He told me that he was here last year when he was just like me, but having caught cold again it made him very bad.

Wednesday 22^nd Mar 1854

Went and saw all through the largest steamship in the world, the Himalaya - a most magnificent vessel - 375 feet long - she is built with a screw - admeasures 3500 tons - 700 horse power - she made her first passage from Malta here in 62 hours, a distance of 819 miles, the quickest passage ever made. The rest of the Indian passengers left for England this morning per "Euxine".

Thursday 23^rd& Friday 24^th Mar 1854

As usual nothing new. Friday - made up my mind to leave for Malta by the French steamer today. Drew upon my father for £40 - in favour of Pethonier & Co. - Dr. Flint intended to go also but before going on board he spoke rather angrily to some donkey boys which brought on such a copious spitting of blood that he felt quite exhausted & had to lay down on his arrival on board the steamer, and the Doctor advised him to go ashore again and not venture, as in case of seasickness it might be dangerous. Accordingly he departed and I was left alone.

About four o'clock the steamer "Lycurgue" began to move and I began to depart from Alexandria - from Egypt, that land of antiquity and former magnificence where I have derived so much benefit- for ever. Slowly we came out of the harbour - slowly we crossed the bar - we then stopped to let away an Arab pilot, and commenced again at full steam to depart from the land of the Pharaohs. It was a perfect calm, the afternoon hot and the sea without motion, as if to allow one time and opportunity to reflect upon the scenery we were fast leaving. Adieu Alexandria - Adieu Egypt - How I thank thee for the benefit I have received in your delicious climate.

Saturday 25^th Mar 1854

Lady Day and Father's birthday. Wished my dear dear father very many happy returns of the day - little wind all day - nothing extraordinary.

Sunday 26^th Mar 1854

Head wind rather fresh. The Lycurgue altho' a very comfortable boat is not a powerful one, and we made very slow progress. At dusk sighted the island of Candia a long way off.

Monday 27^th Mar 1854

Blowing fresh from the west - felt squeamish. By some extraordinary mode of navigation we had got a long way out of our course, in fact all day we were close under the snow clad mountains of Candia, the ancient Crete - saw Mount Ida in the distance.

Tuesday 28^th Mar 1854

Nearly calm all day - nothing to see except a ship now and then.

Wednesday 29^th Mar 1854

Calm all day - met two steamers going west.

Thursday 30^th Mar 1854

On getting up found we were in sight of Malta (tunè I think) and about nine o'clock we arrived in the quarantine harbour. Rain came on immediately we stopped and we landed in the midst of a tremendous shower. We went and took up our abode in the Princess Royal Hotel kept by Mr. Baker, where I changed all my clothes immediately, refreshed myself with a good breakfast, and the weather having cleared up and become beautifully fine two of my fellow passengers (a Mr. Muir from India and a Mr. Angus from Australia) and myself went forth to take a general view of the place.

Malta or rather Valetta is full of troops. Saw a large French steamer go away for Constantinople with two French regiments, towing a brig full of horses. The Rifle Brigade (English) embarked today for the same place in the Golden Fleece - but did not sail. Valetta is well built but the streets are narrow and hilly and at present very crowded, there being 19000 troops in the island which is only 17 miles long by about 8 broad. At evening went to hear the band play at the Main Guard. Dined at 6, bed at 10. Indus sailed for Egypt.

Friday 31 Mar 1854

Wet day - no going out.

Saturday 1^st Apr 1854

Mr. Muir, Mr. Angus and a Mr. Ray & myself chartered a caléche this morning to take us round the island, to see it. We first went to St. Antonio where is the Governors house and gardens, but not having a ticket of leave to admit us into the house we were obliged to go into the garden only, where we got oranges and lemons fresh from the trees. From St. Antonio we went to the village of Monsta at which place there is a very handsome church being built around about an old one, and when the new one is finished the old one is to be pulled down and thrown out of the windows. From there we went to Citta Vecchia (the old city) the former capital of the island. There we had pointed out a church said to have been erected on the spot where St. Paul preached in Malta, and thence called St. Paul's Church. From the church we went to St. Paul's cave where (according to our guide) St. Paul spent three months in penance. From the cave to the catacombs which have no remarkable story connected with them except that of a schoolmaster who some years ago lost himself there and has not yet been found. They were cut by the Saracens. The next was a grotto, and next lunch.

From Citta Vecchia we went to …………….. and saw a large castle which overlooks a magnificent valley - and then we returned to Valetta in time for dinner at 6 o'clock.

Sunday 2^nd April 1854

Walk before breakfast - Mr Muir and myself went this morning to the collegiate church of St. Paul built by the late Queen Adelaide where we heard a most beautiful sermon preached by the Bishop of Gibraltar and Malta from the text taken from the 8^th verse of the 14^th chapter of St. Paul's epistle to the Romans - it being Sacrament Sunday we remained - took a long walk after lunch. During the afternoon the Indus steamer put back with one paddle wheel disabled, it being reported that one of her boilers had burst and some lives had been lost. The Vectis went on with the mails and passengers to Alexandria at night.

Monday 3^rd April 1854

Went to see Mr Micallif at the post office with Mr Thorn's letter of introduction. Spent the rest of the day in writing reading and walking about. A large French steamer full of troops left the harbour for Constantinople.

Tuesday 4^th April 1854

This morning there was a review of 10 regiments before the French General in the square of Floriana. The French steamer from Marseilles which arrived today brought the news that war had been declared by France and England against Russia, and the 44^th and 50^th Regiments were immediately dispatched by H.M.S. Vulcan for Gallipoli.

Wednesday 5^th April 1854

Went to see an examination of pupils at a college about a mile and a half from Valetta this morning. After that took a row about the harbour with Mr Angus and Mr Ray. 6 French steamers with troops came into harbour for coals and proceeded during the night for Gallipoli. Himalaya from Alexandria due today - not yet arrived.

Thursday 6^th April 1854

Nothing particular happened today - more French troops.

Friday 7^th April 1854

The Himalaya arrived this morning and was immediately divested of all cargo and passengers so as to take troops on to Constantinople. All the inns were so full that accommodation could not be found for all the passengers. At night the French steamer "Bosphore" in the absence of the Vectis took on the mails and some of the passengers to Marseilles. Mr Angus and Mr Ray went also.

Saturday 8^th April 1854

Nothing worthy of notice.

Sunday 9^th April 1854

Vectis came in early this morning bringing for me two letters, one from Margaret, the other from James. Went to St. Paul's Church - Bishop of Gibraltar preached from 2 chap 1 Peter 21 verse . Vectis went on to Marseilles - wrote home by her. French steamer for Alexandria. Wrote to Mr Thorne and Dr Flint by her.

Monday 10^th April 1854

This morning went to see the Captain of the brig "Sailor" of Sunderland, who is bound to Cork or Falmouth from Odessa to enquire if he would take me with him as a passenger, which he agreed to do. In the afternoon saw the huge Himalaya start with troops for Gallipoli - about 6 o'clock she started amidst the cheers and good wishes of thousands. At the same time that the Himalaya started from the Great Harbour, the screw steamer "Enieu" started from the Quarantine Harbour also with troops for Gallipoli. These two steamers, or rather the Captains of each of them denies the superiority of the other, and they will contest and prove which is the faster according as they arrive at Gallipoli.

Lost the last of my companions from Alexandria this afternoon. Mr Muir who went by the Liverpool screw steamer "Teneriffe" for Syra, thence to Athens Corfu Trieste and home. Thus we lose friends one by one and are left solitary and lonely. Captain Watson of the "Irene" of Newcastle being in the harbour, went on board to see him.

Tuesday 11^th April 1854

A year this morning since I sailed from Shields harbour on board the "Feronia" for Quebec. How many things have taken place since then - poor Mr Lowrey dead - Feronia sold - Captain Henzell in another vessel.

Went on board the Brig "Sailor" of Sunderland from Odessa bound to Cork or Falmouth for orders to enquire if the Captain would take me as a passenger, which he agreed to do for the sum of £12 which I paid him. Went to the gardens at Floriana. In the afternoon saw the "Irene" sail for England. Wrote to Mr Temple and Uncle - also wrote a letter to Father to be posted on my departure.

Wednesday 12^th April 1854

As usual for the last week or so a cloudless sky - nothing happened.

Thursday 13^th April 1854

"Golden Fleece" returned from Constantinople. Got all my traps ready and on board this afternoon in expectation of sailing tomorrow morning. At night a grand religious procession among the clergy.

Friday 14^th April 1854

Good Friday - rose at 6 o'clock and went down to the quay and on board the "Sailor", but the wind was blowing from the N.E. right into the harbour and causing a sea to rise so that we could not get out. Walked about all day.

Saturday 15^th April 1854

Rose again at 6½ but still could not get out - about 2 o'clock however the wind changed a little and the sea moderated sufficiently to allow us to get out with the assistance of 28 men in boats pulling us. When once out of the harbour the wind was fair & we set studding sails - spoke a small schooner asking for "Malta" at night.

Sunday 16^th April 1854

Strong breezes from E.S.E. - going all day with studding sails on each side. During the morning passed close by a large 24 gun Genoese man of war beating to the Eastward and we each hoisted our ensigns and the Genoese hoisted a lot of signals which we could not answer as we had no signals. About midday sighted the Island of Pantellaria and passed it about 7 o'clock. Passed close by a large paddle wheel steamer with English troops on board.

E.S.E.

Monday 17^th April 1854

Beautiful day. Wind right aft. Sighted and passed Cape Bon - Island of Zembra - Point Farina - and at dusk saw the island of Galita. E.S.E.

Tuesday 18^th April 1854

Fine day and fair wind - saw no land but passed close by several vessels bound west and carrying no topgallant sails E.S.E.

Wednesday 19^th April 1854

Fine day and fresh breezes & right aft as usual - going 7 knots until night when the wind gradually southered until it came to South West causing the studding sails to come in one by one, and finally we were close hauled S.W.

Thursday 20^th April 1854

Sky overcast all day and gentle but S.W. - could not lie our course. Got into the longitude of Ivica today - saw numbers of ships bound East running with studding sails.

Friday 21^st April 1854

Strong gales all day. First we went with double reefed topsails then close reefed with reefed trysail and foresail and mainsail stowed. Saw the Spanish land viz Cape Huertas.

Saturday 22^nd April 1854

Wind still right ahead but moderate - got a reef out of the topsails & mainsail & foresail set - beating off and on the Spanish coast.

Sunday 23^rd April 1854

Standing off and on the Spanish coast all day. Wind right ahead. At night off Cape Palos.

Monday 24^th April 1854

Foul wind - beating all day off Carthagena - no company.

Tuesday 25^th April 1854

On going upon deck found we had a fair wind and were in company with 34 other vessels who had been laying behind Cape de Gata during the late winds. Passed Cape de Gata.

Wednesday 26^th April 1854

Gale of wind from the Eastward. Passed about 50 sail. Running all day under two double reefed topsails & foresail. About half past 7 at night passed Gibraltar Rock which could just be discerned thro' the fog and thus was disappointed in the hope that a westerly wind would prevent us getting thro' the straits for a day or two & cause us to bring up in the Bay, whereby I may have gone ashore.

Thursday 27^th April 1854

Wind still right aft but blowing a perfect gale - scudding in company of half a dozen others under close reefed topsails. Towards evening the wind moderated enabling us to get a couple of reefs out & topgallant sails set.

Friday 28^th April 1854

Seven months this morning since I left Newcastle. Calm with a heavy sea. Off Cape St. Vincent - wet and cloudy - no ships in company.

Saturday 29^th April 1854

Beautiful weather - nearly calm all day - in company with a Brig homeward bound but too far off to speak.

Sunday 30^th April 1854

Still beautiful weather and still calm or nearly so with the brig still in company.

Monday 1^st May 1854

Got a stiff breeze this morning - sometimes laying our course & at others not being able to do so. Sailed away from the brig. Cloudy and showery all day. Passed by Lisbon but not in sight of it - begin to feel the temperature colder the further north we come.

Tuesday 2^nd May 1854

Fine fresh breeze, well on the quarter - rattling along all day. Showery and cold.

Wednesday 3^rd May 1854

Fine - cold - good breeze all day. Passed Cape Finisterre and got into the Bay of Biscay.

Thursday 4^th May 1854

Fine and sunny. Light winds, sometimes nearly calm. Had company in the shape of a clipper barque which we passed during the day.

Friday 5^th May 1854

Fine stiff breeze and squally showery. At night gale of wind - maintopsail split.

Saturday 6^th May 1854

Nice breeze right aft - sea very heavy. Came up with a foreign brig. Calculations make us about 150 miles from Falmouth. Met a large ship bound South and supposed it to be an Australiaman.

Sunday 7^th May 1854

Fine stiff breeze. Running with three studding sails set. Weather so thick and hazy that although we found ourselves just sixteen miles South of the Lizard by the sun at noon and we were going at the rate of seven knots, yet we could not make the land by four o'clock, showing us that the current or some other cause had carried us too far to the Eastward & that we had slipped the Lizard. About half past 4 when it cleared up a little I caught a momentary view of the Eddystone lighthouse a little to windward of us, and pointed it out to the Captain who immediately took in all the small sails & as it was blowing hard took two reefs in the topsails & clapped the ship to the wind. About 6 o'clock passed to the leeward of Eddystone about 2 miles. In half an hour or a little more we hauled up the mainsail to allow a little pilot smack to come up to us, which for the last hour had been trying to catch us but could not. It cleared up and we got a view of old England again for the first time for seven months, it being just that time since we sailed from Southampton. Having got the pilot on board it came on to rain fast and I went down below and in about an hour's time we were anchored in Plymouth Sound.

Monday 8^th May 1854

The Custom house officer came on board about 8 o'clock & searched all thro' the ship but told me that all my traps would have to go ashore to be searched at the Baggage office, he accompanying it - which being done I put my things into the hands of Crowley & co. the carriers to be conveyed to Newcastle, reserving only my small carpet bag which contained a night shirt. Went with Capt. Crozier to see a broker then went to the Navy Hotel - took rooms - went out to visit the Lions of Plymouth. Returned to dine at 1 - walked again - returned to tea at 6½. Sat in the house at night & retired to bed at 10.

Tuesday 9^th May 1854

Got up at 6½ - breakfasted - then took myself off to the railway station & took a ticket for Bristol where I arrived at 3½ p.m. and having an hour to stop went to the Railway Hotel for dinner. At 4½ left for Birmingham where I arrived at 9 and went straightway to the "Hen & Chickens Hotel" for the night.

Wednesday 10^th May 1854

Left Birmingham at 7 a.m. arrived at Derby at 9½, went on to Normanton & York. Left York at 4 p.m. & arrived at N'Castle at 20 mins to 8 - put myself into a cab - went to21 Lovaine Place & astonished them all thus finishing my trip to Egypt in search of health by returning stronger & stouter with better lungs etc. than on my departure.

John P. Ingledew